by Lucas Kwan Peterson
Call it the “Fifth Slam,” call it “Tennis Paradise”—hell, call it by its actual name: The BNP Paribas Open. It’s time for two glorious weeks of tennis in a jaw-droppingly gorgeous desertscape framed by a picturesque mountain background. You’ll be bathed in sunny days, chilly nights (seriously, bring a jacket) and drenched in pricey cocktails and the greatest tennis talent the world has to offer: It’s time for Indian Wells.
Indian Wells keeps breaking attendance records—it blew by half a million last year—and it’s easy to understand why. Since the first leg of what’s now known as the “Sunshine Double” started back in the 1970s, the tournament has grown and evolved as much as the valley in which it sits. Today, it’s an event that is truly for everyone — easy access to fantastic tennis for people who want to nerd out point-by-point, and a Coachella-like atmosphere for people who like to party first, pick up a racquet second.
Restaurants
La Copine
It’s the best restaurant in the area and it’s not particularly close. La Copine is Nikki Hill and Claire Wadsworth’s love letter to new California cuisine and the desert, not necessarily in that order. Their food is rustic, seasonal and undeniably delicious. A current winter menu features a white bean and escarole soup, Asian-inspired noodles with five spice and orange sauce and potato-and-sunchoke latkes. On my last visit there, I loved a shrimp and grits in an aromatic saffron broth and was more than happy to crunch away at their Spanish crispy rice with king oyster mushrooms.
The hours aren’t exactly expansive, so take care in planning your trip. They’re only open Thursday-Sunday from 11 a.m.-4 p.m. If you want to try to nab a reservation beforehand, you can try texting them.
Bar Cecil
Man, what a fun place to get dinner. And man, what a tough table to get. You might try walking in without a reservation like I did during my last visit and get lucky, but do your best to book ahead. Once you’re in, you’re golden. This is Palm Springs at its very best: elegant, fun and loud. Framed photos of topless models and faux lines of coke (all tastefully done, of course) in the bathroom. If there’s a better spot to pull up and grab a shrimp cocktail and martini in the area, I haven’t found it.
Delicias Mexican Food
If you’re out by Desert Hot Springs, north of Palm Springs, don’t sleep on Delicias Mexican Food. Angie Denicia and Armando Olvera brought Mexico City to this little corner of the desert with a bright, colorful restaurant with an expensive menu: think huaraches, pambazos, molcajetes and plates of cochinita pibil. On a visit here during my last trip to Indian Wells, I enjoyed a plate of chilaquiles that were the right balance of crunchy and soggy. A strong cocktail might have also made its way into the order (don’t ask).
The Copper Room
Yucca Valley isn’t exactly on the way to Indian Wells but if you find yourself up there, consider checking out The Copper Room, located right on the edge of a local airstrip. This Rat Pack-era hangout has its origins in the 1950s when a war veteran snapped up a plot of land to build a small private airport and dining room for himself. The menu is what you might expect — steaks and martinis, along with a surprising number of Asian-inspired dishes.
Tennis
Ruth Hardy Park Tennis
There aren’t a ton of easily accessible public tennis courts in Palm Springs — Ruth Hardy Park north of downtown might be your best bet. The 22-acre park has 8 courts and is open until 10 p.m.
Fritz Burns Park
Fritz Burns Park in La Quinta is a 12-acre park that’s one of the better/more convenient places close to the Indian Wells Tennis Garden to grab a public court. Play a quick set and then it’s just a ten minute drive to the actual tournament.
Tennis lessons at La Quinta Resort and Club
This isn’t free, but the La Quinta Resort and Club advertises itself as a place the pros play — and you can, too! There are private lessons, semi-private lessons and live ball clinics available, starting at $40 per hour.
Sights
Shields Date Garden
Is a trip out to the desert complete without learning about how date palms reproduce? (Did you know there are male and female trees?) Shields Date Garden, now over 100 years old, is a place you can learn far more about the life of the date than you ever thought you wanted to know. While you’re there, enjoying one of their famous date shakes with chewy bits of the sugary fruit, is a must.
Joshua Tree Certified Farmer’s Market
If you’re going to explore the Joshua Tree area (you’ve come this far — why wouldn’t you?), make a stop at the certified farmer’s market. It takes place every Saturday morning from 8 a.m. until 1 p.m. and is a stone’s throw from the Joshua Tree Visitors Center, to which you should also pay a visit. Support your local farmers and artisans!
Salton Sea/Salvation Mountain
This isn’t exactly in the area but it’s tough to leave off the map. Only 65 miles from the Tennis Garden, the Salton Sea and Salvation Mountain can make a fun half-day trip for those with a desire to embrace their inner Mad Maxes. Bombed-out beaches and dead fish litter the trail to Leonard Knight’s iconic piece of environmental sculpture, which is covered in 500,000 gallons of paint.
Lodging
Hicksville Trailer Palace
I’m old enough to remember when this place was a secret — Joshua Tree’s Hicksville Trailer Palace was like a fun, underground hipster secret. You’d book one of their themed trailers with names like The Fifi and The Pee Wee (I’ve stayed in one called The Pioneer) and they’d send you the exact address a few days before your stay, like it was some kind of illegal rave.
Anyway, it’s a compound with a pool, various activities, and colorful, themed trailers. It’s a fun place to soak up some rays and feel like you’re in a John Waters movie.
El Morocco Inn and Spa Resort
I stayed here last time I went to the Indian Wells tournament and really enjoyed it. Like most good desert lodging, it feels kitschy, is creatively decorated and feels out of the way. And the El Morocco has a major attraction for visitors to Desert Hot Springs — natural mineral water pools complimentary for guests staying at the hotel.
Errant balls, Umpire Chairs & Net Signage
Jess Pegula has a SERIOUS Sleep Routine: World No. 5 Jessica Pegula has had a busy few weeks. From lifting the trophy in Dubai for her fourth Masters 1000 title to becoming Blueair’s air wellness ambassador, her results call attention to what many of us already know: sleep hygiene, including managing air quality, is serious business.
Bring me Back to Life: Caira Conner’s incredibly moving story about Joe Lynskey, who made his way from the bottom of the subway tracks back onto a tennis court, has been recognized with a National Magazine Award nod for Best Profile. If you haven’t already read it, now is a great time to spend time with a person who responded to a horrific event with love and gratitude for a sport that means the world to him.
See You in the Desert: We’re hosting a party in the desert to launch our latest issue! Here’s what we can share so far: Monday, happy hour in Palm Springs. Come thirsty and ready to party to the sounds of DJ Chiquita. Our IG will have more deets!